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The nutrient film technique (NFT) is fairly simple to set up and use. In NFT systems, plants are placed and grown in long channels or pipes that are filled with nutrient-rich water. The roots hang down into this channel and absorb nutrients from the flowing water. All reducing pests or diseases present in soil based systems.
A variation on NFT is the Dutch Bucket Hydroponics SystemNutrient Checklist to list https://www.facebook.com/groups/738719191196990/permalink/1394666258935610/
General Maintenance
If growing preparation is done reasonably well, different plants will be emerging and flowering at a great rate and maintaining them and the space around your containers will be a job. Plants nutrient deficiency starts to show where the nutrient reservoir mix falls below a certain level, and must be maintained to a higher level. The range of plants can become a fun thing rather than a sustenance necessity. Finding the balance between need and desirable fun needs to be met. In turn the different grow rates, and general appearance and a shear mass forming, that either don't get utilised (eaten) and become a pest magnet, is a factor to take into account, certainly when space for growing is at a premium.
Knowing when to clear is important, but in some cases allowing the plant to flower in adequate sunlight and warmth conditions, can lead to the developing of seeds for future use (after putting the flowers in a bucket, letting them dry out and taking the seeds...) of course this depends on the given variety of plant.
General pointers
Let me add some of my experience. Specifically height and spacing requirements for plants. I started like you. With a wire rack. Some shoe totes as my containers. Spacing was 3 inches between plants. Not good. Is choked out light from the slower growing plants. I have found. 6 to 9 inches between holes is good spacing for most lettuces and leafy greens Ive grown. 10 to 12 inches is ideal in my opinion. Now as your rack is set up now. All those shelves could be used as a germination station. Dont need much height (or spacing at this point) From top of contaner to top of where lights are hung at its highest. Shoot for 18 inches. This gives plenty of room. Basically. Your shelf. Can utilize 2 shelves for sure. Would be pushing it for 3 of them. But with the right lettuces. You could do it. As for containers. I've done totes of a couple different sizes. But I suggest, getting as close to an nft rails/channels (or get the actual rails from cropking) I found this worked best, as you can get. And I could put 2 rails comfortably on each shelf. Or with some modification. You could do 3 rails of nft per shelf. Modifying? Add some wood cross peices, rails set on them.. Have a rail in the middle of the shelf. A rail on the outside back and outside front. If I had a picture I would show you what I did the last time I used this system as Im describing. My build is current bigger now. Not quite finished. But bigger 6 rails wide. Still working in vertical growing. Just bigger set up. Same concept though Michael Hofius I plan to use 3 shelves with 18 inches of clearance to lights. How much reservoir volume do you suggest? Mc Yanick depends on what your using. Totes are themselves the resivior. Rails(nft) With a pump set up. Can run comfortable with 5 to 10 gallons. You will add to it every week though. However, the bigger the resivior. The longer it will last. And I usually went 3 weeks. Sometimes longer. But not often. Between nutrient change outs. This was for 48" nft rails x 6. Three rails per shelf in a 2 shelf set up. I was gonna buy PVC pipe and connections. DIY it. But after adding up cost. I found that the smaller width 48" nft rails(channels.. I keep saying rails. They're channels) from cropking was cheaper than a full DIY build. And I know for sure they're food safe. Plus the tops come off so easy cleaning. Which is a necessary evil that has to be done from time to time.
Seed sowing and germination
Seed Starting NFT works so well for leafy Green Vegetables, but one can frow just as well Spring Onions Pok choi Kale Spinach Lettuce Mustard Greens NFT: A pump from the reservoir at the end of a channel pumps water up a pipe and into the top of the channel. The water then creates a very thin film literally just across the surface of the channel. The water then travels back down back into the reservoir washing the nutrient-mix solution across the roots hanging from above. One of the key benefits of NFT is following the seedling stage one doesn't need any form of Grow Support it can simply hang roots into the water film below in the channel.Plumbing Layer
Types of System
Channel and Pump Cleaning
Turn the taps off of the feeder tubes. This stops the flow from an individual channel. The tubing can then be removed from the individual channels. Lift the whole plastic channel container AMAZON AFFILIATE LINK and clean appropriately. One can do all the steps on individual channels and their feeder tubes without stopping the whole system, by turning off the pump. One can use regular household cleaning agents diluted to no more than 15% of the cleaning solution.. This doesn't have to be inside the channels, more on the surface with a view to clearing as many pests and pathogens. Remember plants in nature existing in regular earthly dirt.
Nutrient Mixing
pH Balance of 6.9 - AMAZON AFFILIATE LINK to Hydroponics pH monitor devices. EC level high after no change for 6 months of 2.34
GOOD nutrient mix management top-up and storing 1 g per litre of "Diamond Spec T" and 1g per litre of the Nitro-Cal but half dependent on whether leafy greens other input ratios for different plant types 9mins to 13 minutes in this video: RED Remo Nutrient Film Technique: Operation and Maintenance How to Adjust Hydroponic Nutrients for BeginnersA hydroponic nutrient solution is a water-based mix containing essential macro and micronutrients like NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), calcium, sulfur, magnesium, and trace elements. You can buy pre-made solutions as liquids or powders or create your own by combining them with purified water. The solution must be carefully balanced for pH and EC (electrical conductivity) to ensure plant health. Key components Macronutrients: The "big three" are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), which are vital for leaf growth, roots, and overall plant health. Other important macronutrients include calcium, sulfur, and magnesium. Micronutrients: These are needed in smaller amounts but are still critical. They include elements like iron, manganese, zinc, and boron. Base nutrients: You can buy these in liquid or powder form, which are specifically formulated for hydroponics. A common example is a balanced NPK fertilizer like 20-20-20, along with other components like calcium nitrate and Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate). How to create a solution Use purified water: Start with water that has been purified, such as by a reverse osmosis (RO) system, to ensure a clean and predictable starting point. Mix nutrients: Follow the instructions for your chosen pre-made kit or a DIY recipe. For example, a simple DIY recipe might involve mixing a specific amount of a water-soluble NPK fertilizer, calcium nitrate, and Epsom salt into a gallon of water. Check and adjust: After mixing, check the solution's pH and electrical conductivity (EC) levels. The ideal pH is often between \(5.5\) and \(6.0\) for many plants. You may need to add a pH-up or pH-down solution to get it right. Maintenance Regularly add water: The water level in your hydroponic system will decrease due to transpiration and evaporation, so you'll need to add water to maintain the correct level. Perform regular solution changes: It is necessary to completely replace the nutrient solution in your system every one to three weeks, depending on the size and type of system and the growing environment. This prevents a buildup of unused salts and nutrients.
EC, or Electrical Conductivity , in hydroponics is a measurement of the total dissolved salts and minerals (nutrients) in the water solution, indicating its concentration strength. A higher EC means a more concentrated nutrient solution, while a lower EC means the solution is more diluted. Proper EC levels are crucial because too low a concentration can lead to nutrient deficiencies, while too high a concentration can lead to nutrient toxicity and root damage. This video explains the basics of EC and its importance in hydroponics: 40sBright Lane GardensYouTube • 16 Nov 2023 What EC indicates ...Nutrient concentration: EC is an efficient way to gauge the overall strength of the nutrient solution without having to test for each individual nutrient. Plant health: It helps ensure that plants receive the right amount of nutrients for healthy growth without becoming toxic. Plant needs: Ideal EC levels vary depending on the plant type and its stage of growth. Seedlings and leafy greens need a lower EC, while fruiting plants like tomatoes require a higher EC. Why monitoring is essential Too low (< 1.0 mS/cm): The solution is too diluted, and the plant may experience nutrient deficiencies. Too high (> 3.0 mS/cm): The solution is over-fertilized, which can cause nutrient burn, salt toxicity, or prevent the plant from taking up enough water, leading to wilting. Ideal range: A general target for many mature plants is around \(1.8\) mS/cm, but this can vary significantly by crop. This video explains how EC levels affect plant growth:05:15AirgardenYouTube • 9 Dec 2022Measuring and adjusting Use an EC meter: A handheld EC meter is used to measure the electrical conductivity of the nutrient solution. Adjust as needed: If the EC is too high, you can add more water. If it's too low, you can add a concentrated nutrient solution. Monitor regularly: Consistently monitoring the EC allows you to make small adjustments to maintain the ideal level for your plants.
Adjusting flow rate
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Star Mixes https://www.reddit.com/answers/03e73e60-2d13-449a-840e-08bd78a74c26/?q=Best%20nutrient%20mixes%20for%20hydroponic%20lettuce&source=PDPhttps://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/what-comes-first-part-a-or-part-b-when-mixing-nutrients-article-from-urbangarden-mag.36800/ Hoochos stock making https://youtu.be/UBD-iT1hhts?si=DvUoLNSKOJBF-Spr Master Grow А&В - Grow Accelerator Suitable for all methods of cultivation: soil, hydroponics and coco substrate. Nutrient Schedule the best nutrition school for your child. Master Grow Recommended dosage: 1-3 ml/ 1 liter of water, depending on the size of the plant. Shake well before use. For each application, use Master Grow A and Master Grow B in equal dosages. Master Grow specifications: Declared content PART A NPK 2,5-0-0, calcium Ca 2,5%, magnesium Mg 0,65%, chelated micronutrients, iron Fe 0,06%, manganese Mn 0,052% , zinc Zn 0,02%, copper Cu 0,0016% , molybdenum Mo 0,0001% Declared content PART B NPK 2-2-7, sulphur - SO3 2,2% Storage conditions Store in the original packaging in a dry and cool place, but NOT in a refrigerator, at temperatures between 5 and 30°C, out of reach of children and pets. Keep away from direct sunlight. Shelf life - 5 years. Special precautions for use In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice.
Stock Nutrient Solution A and B for reservoir https://youtu.be/uOkJHZS6gzU?si=5OXh3vA1Vq4ZldzT https://youtu.be/UBD-iT1hhts?si=i-Q9NABRolU3dbix Do it yourself creating nutrients from scratch https://youtu.be/JoFVy1jfBN4?si=s_9BO4F3pbOdfs_Z
Adjusting flow rate
Types of System
Sourcing a cheap PH and TDS&EC meter all over the place, and measure the EC, the reading, for lettuce, should be in the area of 700 uS/cm (0.7 mS/cm, depending on which units your meter displays) ensure the meter is set to EC mode, not PPM or TDS, double check. Measure after you add the nutrients, if it's low, add more, in that same order, A, B, C. If it's high add some more water. You don't need to be exact., anywhere 0.5-1.0 would be fine.
You should also check the Ph of the final solution .
Ph Chart Ph / EC and Temperature controlled1. Can I use my dirt garden fertilizer granulars? The short answer is NO, and you should strongly avoid it. Hydroponics relies on plant roots having direct access to water with dissolved nutrients. Granular garden fertilizers are designed to break down slowly in soil and are absorbed through microbial activity. Clogging Risk: The granules will not dissolve completely or evenly in water, and the undissolved solids will clog your hydroponic system (pumps, tubes, and emitters). Nutrient Imbalance: Soil fertilizers do not contain the precise, immediately bio-available chemical forms of macro- and micronutrients required for soilless growing. The ratios will be completely wrong for your plants in a pure water solution. 2. Can I make my own hydroponic nutrients? Yes, it is possible, but it requires precision and is not recommended for absolute beginners. "Making your own" typically means buying the individual chemical salts (like Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulfate, and Monopotassium Phosphate) in bulk and mixing them yourself using precise formulas. Pros (Saving Money): This is the most cost-effective way to buy nutrients long-term, as you are only paying for the pure chemicals, not the brand or the water content. Cons (Complexity): It requires a precision scale and knowledge of nutrient formulas (e.g., NPK ratio, Cal/Mag ratios, and trace elements) to ensure the salts dissolve correctly and don't "precipitate" (fall out of solution) when mixed incorrectly. 3. Cost-Saving Alternatives If you want to avoid expensive kits but aren't ready for bulk chemical mixing, here are cheaper, viable options: "Two-Part" Liquid Concentrates: Buy a complete nutrient system that comes in two separate concentrated bottles (Part A and Part B). These are often cheaper than starter kits and last much longer. Water-Soluble Dry Powder Nutrients (for Hydroponics): Look for fertilizers explicitly labeled as "hydroponic" that come in a dry powder form (e.g., MasterBlend, Jack's, or generic formulas). These are much cheaper than liquid counterparts because you aren't paying the cost of shipping water. You simply dissolve the powder in water before adding it to your reservoir. The key is: Look for any fertilizer that is 100% water-soluble and specifically made for soilless cultivation. What exactly are you growing (leafy greens, tomatoes, herbs, etc.)? Knowing that might help point you toward a specific, budget-friendly formula. Mixing Hydroponic Solutions - DIY Fertiliser Nurtients for Don't worry, I've got you covered - hydroponic lettuce can be finicky! To save your lettuce, you'll want to add a balanced hydroponic nutrient solution to your water. Here are the essential nutrients you'll need: * **Macro nutrients:** + Nitrogen (N) for leaf growth + Phosphorus (P) for root development + Potassium (K) for overall health * **Micro nutrients:** + Calcium for cell wall strength + Magnesium for photosynthesis + Iron for chlorophyll production A general hydroponic nutrient mix ratio is around 20-20-20 (N-P-K), but always follow the manufacturer's instructions for dilution rates. Also, someone in our community had a similar issue with cucumbers and suspected fungus - they treated it with a hydrogen peroxide solution (4oz of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 1 gallon of non-chlorinated water) [[1]]. Do any of these potential issues resonate with what you're seeing with your lettuce? Nutrient Balance for Lettuce
Algae in a hydroponic nutrient solution is problematic because it competes with plants for nutrients and dissolved oxygen, which can lead to stunted growth and root rot. It also disrupts the pH balance, can clog pumps and pipes, and can produce toxins. Competition for resources Nutrients: Algae consumes nutrients like nitrogen, which are meant for your plants, starving them and hindering healthy growth. Oxygen: Algae consumes dissolved oxygen in the water. In large quantities, this can suffocate plant roots, leading to root rot. System damage Clogging: Algae can form a slimy buildup that clogs pipes, tubes, and pumps, disrupting the flow of the nutrient solution. Root rot: The slimy, moist surface of algae can cause plant stems to rot, especially in deep water culture systems. pH and nutrient imbalance pH fluctuations: Algae consumes oxygen overnight, which drops the pH to acidic levels. During the day, it releases oxygen, causing the pH to rise. This constant, daily fluctuation stresses the plants and can cause misleading pH readings. Nutrient depletion: As the algae population grows, it will continue to absorb nutrients, making the solution less effective for plant growth. Health risks Toxins: Some algae species can release toxins into the water, which can be harmful to humans and pets, as well as the plants.
No, regular tomato plant fluid is not recommended for lettuce seed germination and early growth, as it is high in potassium, which is suitable for fruiting plants. Lettuce requires a high-nitrogen fertilizer for leafy growth, and using tomato feed can encourage it to "bolt" (go to seed prematurely). It is also too strong for tiny seedlings; it is best to wait until the seedlings are a few weeks old and established, and use a diluted solution for the first feeding. Why tomato feed is not suitable Incorrect nutrient balance: Tomato feed is formulated to promote fruit production, which requires high levels of potassium. Promotes bolting: High potassium feeds are not ideal for leafy greens like lettuce, as they can cause them to go to seed (bolt) more quickly. Too strong for seedlings: Tomato feed is often too concentrated for very young seedlings and can cause "fertilizer burn" or damage the plant's roots. What to do instead Wait to fertilize: Do not use any fertilizer on your lettuce seedlings until they are a few weeks old and have a few true leaves. Use a high-nitrogen feed: When you are ready to fertilize, use a liquid feed that is high in nitrogen, which is formulated for leafy greens. Dilute the feed: Always dilute the liquid fertilizer to a fraction of the strength recommended on the bottle for seedlings to prevent damage. Feed the soil, not just the plant: A healthy soil will provide enough nutrients, so liquid feeds are often used to supplement rather than replace soil nutrients.
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Propogation preparation
The plants don't need any support they can literally be bare roots. All what has to do is get the plants through the seedling stage to the point they have grown or sprouted roots and can hang over the Nutrient flow film... Leafy Greens can be grown in Rockwool, Feet pellets, and cotton wool buds to name a few. But as effective as any other cotton wool buds are cheaper than otherwise. After raising the seedlings in a propogation pallete https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB6ULwLNpKA
Planting
Types of System
These are either Recirculating or Flood and Drain to waste hydroponic system. The bucket itself allows you to supply nutrients top fed via pipes or tubes into a bucket that then collects the nutrients and feeds it back into a pipe either disposing of the nutrient or recirculating the nutrient. So the pipe will either deliver the nutrient back down the channel and into a reservoir where the pump will feed again on a timer or will feed continuously.
Dutch Buckets are so versatile no Grow-Support with a Lid and Net Cup, one can have Coco Perlite, Coco on its own or Hydrogen Clayballs.
Hydrogen Clayballs. As sometimes the shelf life via the Perlite Grow-Supports isn't always so reliable. Dutch Buckets are limited by shear size and available space to locate them. So for Fruit plants like Tomatoes, Egg Plants and Cucumber and other high value crops and can sit side by side with the Leafy Green vegetables more abundant.
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