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Deep Water Culture Systems - and Kratky

AMEND .....Nutrient solutions enhanced by oxygen using air stones require somewhat more maintenance than the Kratky method. Utilising the PowerIt solutions this can be reduced... But Large growing plants like fruits and... can be utilised by the Kratky and Deep-Water Culture systems. However, they require significant maintenance overall.

Other passive methods are more recommendable than these techniques. Nonetheless they work well in circumstances where........... The Kratky method is powerless and passive, where one doesn't need Grow Support as well as you don't need electricity. They can be used to grow anything, most especially Leafy Green vegetables.

A variation on NFT is the Dutch Bucket Hydroponics System

Key Elements to Deep Water Culture Systems

  1. General Maintenance

  2. Plumbing Layer

  3. Channel and Pump cleaning

  4. Nutrient Mixing

  5. Ph balancing when changing the reservoir for the water and nutrients

  6. Adjusting flow rate

  7. Propogation preparation

  8. Planting


 
Vegetable pH EC (mS/cm) PPM 500 A...
#1 (FB) Water and... A Far far away, behind the word mountains B C
#1 (FB) Water and... A Far far away, behind the word mountains B C
#1 (FB) Water and... A Far far away, behind the word mountains B C
#1 (FB) Water and... A Far far away, behind the word mountains B C

The nutrient film technique (NFT) is fairly simple to set up and use. In NFT systems, plants are placed and grown in long channels or pipes that are filled with nutrient-rich water. The roots hang down into this channel and absorb nutrients from the flowing water. All reducing pests or diseases present in soil based systems. A variation on NFT is the Dutch Bucket Hydroponics System

General Maintenance

If growing preparation is done reasonably well, different plants will be emerging and flowering at a great rate and maintaining them and the space around your containers will be a job. Plants nutrient deficiency starts to show where the nutrient reservoir mix falls below a certain level, and must be maintained to a higher level. The range of plants can become a fun thing rather than a sustenance necessity. Finding the balance between need and desirable fun needs to be met. In turn the different grow rates, and general appearance and a shear mass forming, that either don't get utilised (eaten) and become a pest magnet, is a factor to take into account, certainly when space for growing is at a premium.

Knowing when to clear is important, but in some cases allowing the plant to flower in adequate sunlight and warmth conditions, can lead to the developing of seeds for future use (after putting the flowers in a bucket, letting them dry out and taking the seeds...) of course this depends on the given variety of plant.

Seed sowing and germination

Seed Starting NFT works so well for leafy Green Vegetables, but one can frow just as well Spring Onions Pok choi Kale Spinach Lettuce Mustard Greens NFT: A pump from the reservoir at the end of a channel pumps water up a pipe and into the top of the channel. The water then creates a very thin film literally just across the surface of the channel. The water then travels back down back into the reservoir washing the nutrient-mix solution across the roots hanging from above. One of the key benefits of NFT is following the seedling stage one doesn't need any form of Grow Support it can simply hang roots into the water film below in the channel.

Plumbing Layer

Types of System

Channel and Pump Cleaning

Turn the taps off of the feeder tubes. This stops the flow from an individual channel. The tubing can then be removed from the individual channels. Lift the whole plastic channel container AMAZON AFFILIATE LINK and clean appropriately. One can do all the steps on individual channels and their feeder tubes without stopping the whole system, by turning off the pump. One can use regular household cleaning agents diluted to no more than 15% of the cleaning solution.. This doesn't have to be inside the channels, more on the surface with a view to clearing as many pests and pathogens. Remember plants in nature existing in regular earthly dirt.

Nutrient Mixing

pH Balance of 6.9 - AMAZON AFFILIATE LINK to Hydroponics pH monitor devices. EC level high after no change for 6 months of 2.34

GOOD nutrient mix management top-up and storing 1 g per litre of "Diamond Spec T" and 1g per litre of the Nitro-Cal but half dependent on whether leafy greens other input ratios for different plant types 9mins to 13 minutes in this video: RED Remo Nutrient Film Technique: Operation and Maintenance How to Adjust Hydroponic Nutrients for Beginners

A hydroponic nutrient solution is a water-based mix containing essential macro and micronutrients like NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), calcium, sulfur, magnesium, and trace elements. You can buy pre-made solutions as liquids or powders or create your own by combining them with purified water. The solution must be carefully balanced for pH and EC (electrical conductivity) to ensure plant health. Key components Macronutrients: The "big three" are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), which are vital for leaf growth, roots, and overall plant health. Other important macronutrients include calcium, sulfur, and magnesium. Micronutrients: These are needed in smaller amounts but are still critical. They include elements like iron, manganese, zinc, and boron. Base nutrients: You can buy these in liquid or powder form, which are specifically formulated for hydroponics. A common example is a balanced NPK fertilizer like 20-20-20, along with other components like calcium nitrate and Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate). How to create a solution Use purified water: Start with water that has been purified, such as by a reverse osmosis (RO) system, to ensure a clean and predictable starting point. Mix nutrients: Follow the instructions for your chosen pre-made kit or a DIY recipe. For example, a simple DIY recipe might involve mixing a specific amount of a water-soluble NPK fertilizer, calcium nitrate, and Epsom salt into a gallon of water. Check and adjust: After mixing, check the solution's pH and electrical conductivity (EC) levels. The ideal pH is often between \(5.5\) and \(6.0\) for many plants. You may need to add a pH-up or pH-down solution to get it right. Maintenance Regularly add water: The water level in your hydroponic system will decrease due to transpiration and evaporation, so you'll need to add water to maintain the correct level. Perform regular solution changes: It is necessary to completely replace the nutrient solution in your system every one to three weeks, depending on the size and type of system and the growing environment. This prevents a buildup of unused salts and nutrients. 

EC, or Electrical Conductivity , in hydroponics is a measurement of the total dissolved salts and minerals (nutrients) in the water solution, indicating its concentration strength. A higher EC means a more concentrated nutrient solution, while a lower EC means the solution is more diluted. Proper EC levels are crucial because too low a concentration can lead to nutrient deficiencies, while too high a concentration can lead to nutrient toxicity and root damage. This video explains the basics of EC and its importance in hydroponics: 40sBright Lane GardensYouTube • 16 Nov 2023 What EC indicates ...Nutrient concentration: EC is an efficient way to gauge the overall strength of the nutrient solution without having to test for each individual nutrient. Plant health: It helps ensure that plants receive the right amount of nutrients for healthy growth without becoming toxic. Plant needs: Ideal EC levels vary depending on the plant type and its stage of growth. Seedlings and leafy greens need a lower EC, while fruiting plants like tomatoes require a higher EC. Why monitoring is essential Too low (< 1.0 mS/cm): The solution is too diluted, and the plant may experience nutrient deficiencies. Too high (> 3.0 mS/cm): The solution is over-fertilized, which can cause nutrient burn, salt toxicity, or prevent the plant from taking up enough water, leading to wilting. Ideal range: A general target for many mature plants is around \(1.8\) mS/cm, but this can vary significantly by crop. This video explains how EC levels affect plant growth:05:15AirgardenYouTube • 9 Dec 2022Measuring and adjusting Use an EC meter: A handheld EC meter is used to measure the electrical conductivity of the nutrient solution. Adjust as needed: If the EC is too high, you can add more water. If it's too low, you can add a concentrated nutrient solution. Monitor regularly: Consistently monitoring the EC allows you to make small adjustments to maintain the ideal level for your plants. 

Nutrient Schedule

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1156935537680311/posts/29427127410234412/

Star Mixes https://www.reddit.com/answers/03e73e60-2d13-449a-840e-08bd78a74c26/?q=Best%20nutrient%20mixes%20for%20hydroponic%20lettuce&source=PDP

Method for making Nutrient Solution

https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/what-comes-first-part-a-or-part-b-when-mixing-nutrients-article-from-urbangarden-mag.36800/ Hoochos stock making https://youtu.be/UBD-iT1hhts?si=DvUoLNSKOJBF-Spr Master Grow А&В - Grow Accelerator Suitable for all methods of cultivation: soil, hydroponics and coco substrate. Nutrient Schedule the best nutrition school for your child. Master Grow Recommended dosage: 1-3 ml/ 1 liter of water, depending on the size of the plant. Shake well before use. For each application, use Master Grow A and Master Grow B in equal dosages. Master Grow specifications: Declared content PART A NPK 2,5-0-0, calcium Ca 2,5%, magnesium Mg 0,65%, chelated micronutrients, iron Fe 0,06%, manganese Mn 0,052% , zinc Zn 0,02%, copper Cu 0,0016% , molybdenum Mo 0,0001% Declared content PART B NPK 2-2-7, sulphur - SO3 2,2% Storage conditions Store in the original packaging in a dry and cool place, but NOT in a refrigerator, at temperatures between 5 and 30°C, out of reach of children and pets. Keep away from direct sunlight. Shelf life - 5 years. Special precautions for use In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice.

Stock Nutrient Solution A and B for reservoir https://youtu.be/uOkJHZS6gzU?si=5OXh3vA1Vq4ZldzT https://youtu.be/UBD-iT1hhts?si=i-Q9NABRolU3dbix Do it yourself creating nutrients from scratch https://youtu.be/JoFVy1jfBN4?si=s_9BO4F3pbOdfs_Z

Adjusting flow rate

Types of System


Key Elements to Dutch Bucket Hydroponics System

These are either Recirculating or Flood and Drain to waste hydroponic system. The bucket itself allows you to supply nutrients top fed via pipes or tubes into a bucket that then collects the nutrients and feeds it back into a pipe either disposing of the nutrient or recirculating the nutrient. So the pipe will either deliver the nutrient back down the channel and into a reservoir where the pump will feed again on a timer or will feed continuously.

Dutch Buckets are so versatile no Grow-Support with a Lid and Net Cup, one can have Coco Perlite, Coco on its own or Hydrogen Clayballs.

Hydrogen Clayballs. As sometimes the shelf life via the Perlite Grow-Supports isn't always so reliable. Dutch Buckets are limited by shear size and available space to locate them. So for Fruit plants like Tomatoes, Egg Plants and Cucumber and other high value crops and can sit side by side with the Leafy Green vegetables more abundant.

For the Dutch bucket system, start by running nutrients for about 15 minutes, then check how long it takes for the growing medium to dry—not completely dry, but no longer soggy, so air can reach the roots. If you’re using coco coir or peat moss, drying usually takes around an hour, though it can be shorter or longer depending on your environment. This is just a starting point; you’ll need to adjust based on your humidity, airflow, and temperature. That learning curve was the hardest part for me, and it’s one reason I eventually switched to DWC. Allowing the medium to partially dry between cycles is essential for oxygen exchange and for preventing root rot. For the tower system, many growers start with 15 minutes on and 45 minutes off. A tower works much like a vertical Dutch bucket—the same oxygen balance applies. The nutrient solution can wet the growing medium, but it should drain quickly and have time to dry slightly before the next watering cycle. The goal is for roots to stay moist and oxygenated, not for the medium to remain constantly wet. Timing depends on how much of the roots are exposed to air. Without enough air exposure, roots can’t breathe and may rot. There’s no universal setting, so use your system manual as a guide and fine-tune through observation. If roots start turning brown or slimy, extend the off-time to improve oxygen. If roots dry and plants wilt, shorten the interval. As for the NFT debris, what you’re seeing looks like organic buildup—possibly biofilm from bacteria, decaying roots, or dead algae. That amount of debris can clog the pump or tubing, so it’s best to clean and flush the system before refilling. Because light is entering the channels, algae growth is likely. Make the tubes opaque by covering them with black or silver tape to block light. Adding a beneficial microbe product such as Hydroguard can help suppress algae and cyanobacteria. Also, cover any unused holes or open slots to keep light out. Keep your nutrient solution around 65–70°F (around 18–21°C). Warmer water holds less oxygen and encourages root pathogens, especially in bucket systems. Cooler, well-aerated water helps roots stay white and healthy. Finally, always ask why when you think what. Once you understand why your system cycles or runs continuously, you’ll find it much easier to fine-tune timing, oxygen, and nutrients for each plant and its growth stage—and yes, you’ll may need to learn this individually for every type of plant you grow.

    1. Double Dutch bucket system
    2. The Dutch Multi-Bucket Experiments

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Additional Information A Cheap Alternative - Kratky Hydroponic Method!

A common issue in Kratky hydroponics is that as the nutrient solution ages, the pH tends to drop because the plants absorb more nitrates and leave behind acidic residues. In Kratky systems, there’s no circulation or regular top-up with buffered water, so the solution naturally becomes more acidic over time. To fix this, dump the old nutrient solution and clean the container. Refill it with fresh water and nutrients mixed in the proper order and ratio. After adjusting the pH to around 6.0–6.5, make sure part of the roots remain in the air space above the water. You don’t want to submerge all the roots; that air gap is essential for oxygen exchange and healthy growth.

a href="https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1380438663691703&id=738719191196990" target="_blank"> (FB) A Cheap Alternative - Further reflections I think they show you what you want to see.... Not what the reality will be. They show large plants, but those plants are literally busting out of the unit. They are far from finished growing. I still see this as a counter top unit. So be advised.... You will need a second hydroponic setup for larger plants if you attempt to grow tomatoes or cucumbers in that unit. It is truly designed for leafy greens and herbs. Yes it can easily be used to starting seedlings, but they will need a permanent home when they get too big. It does appear to be a kratkey setup. A better way to do the same thing is to get a food grade bin and a 2" hole saw and net cups. Purchase a proper grow light sized for your bin. The grow light is gonna be much better quality than what you get in that kit. I've yet to see a small system that has an airstone (they all have water pumps). If this is your first foray into this, and you don't want to spend a lot of money, get a URUQ pod (the height is adjustable to 21") which is less than $40 or if you want an 18-pod system, you can get the Mugfa which is on sale for $45 (but height is only adjustable to 17.7"). I have ahopegarden & a URUQ (my friend has a few Mugfa 18pod) systems Herbs would do fine in either of these systems so you can plant a few of them and 1 pepper plant (maybe you could do 2 pepper plants - one at either side in the back - with a few herbs in the front middle). Find seeds for small, container friendly, peppers like lunchbox (sweet) or porta-peno (small jalapeno). Starting small to get used to it, and be prepared to work out the kinks along the way. If you want an airstone, you can get a small aquarium one and put that into the tank through one of the unused holes for pods (just make sure you cover the rest of the opening to prevent algae growth). Laura Marie the adjustable height for the light is 26.77" which is 9-10 inches higher than most counter top models. I think the bottom of my ahopegarden 60-pod is only 24" So this system should be OK for tom thumb tomatoes/peas, many of the smaller container friendly peppers and other dwarf plants that have a height below 2 feet. That said, I see people planting in each hole clearly expecting to all the plants grow to maturity in the system so it looks like the marketing pictures that show a bounty of lettuce, tomatoes, peppers & cukes in one 12-pod system which is unrealistic. People need to give plants and roots space, so they really should research the cultivars they're planting and plan to give them space. I just started doing this in April and, aside from the stuff I grew to transplant in my summer garden, I pretty much consider thing I'm doing this year to be an experiment to see what works, figure out where I'm running into issues and how to mitigate/remediate them.

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