My GreenTech

PowerIt!, StoreIt!, GrowIt!...

Which future course will key issues and trends take? What is the complex reality behind why they will be that way and are we happy or seeking to present smart realisable and ultimately sustainable solutions where needed...

             

Building your system(s) from scratch


Electricity Basics

An individual or family has a whole variety of needs when it comes to powering what they consume and in turn what they need. There a variety of ways we consume energy, this is reviewed in the Archetypes page.

No matter what element of the triad Power It, Store It, Grow It one is starting and developing it is a complex set of interdependent variables that one must carefully balance to help one to be safe with least hassle. Where one cam start small, purchase a convenient and affordable 400 to 600W portable power station this will only store and power from SolarPV/ or Wind Turbine current for a limited variety of everyday needs, namely mobile(s), laptops and such like.

The basic conundrum is if one has the budget for going for full SolarPV inexcess of 5-10K depending on requirements, the do it yourself off grid peicemeal effort has a series of basic queries/ checklist:

Mobile PV Solar Panels

  1. Will you buy a 175 Watt Renogy or Ecoworthy competitive and reliable Solar PV Panel.... or two....
  2. Will you accept with limited generating capacity one has to be mobile and not fix the panel to a specific South facing element.
  3. Are you prepared to waste significant time catching the best sun.
  4. Setting up panel/connecting conducting wire to charge controller/ fuse / circuit breaker or over-current protection method between positive terminal on battery and charge controller... managing the safety elements
  5. Will you then be clear about the energy loss of the inverter this is monor if on constant connection....
  6. The right inverter is key to valuable energy stored in your battery from a limited generating capacity in under 400w worth of panels....
  7. Will you accept with limited generating capacity one has to be mobile and not fix the panel to a specific South facing element.

Fixed / Wall Mounted limited generation system

Gareden or green space Solar Tracker limited generation system

  1. Will you still buy a 175 Watt Renogy or Ecoworthy competitive and reliable Solar PV Panel.... or two....and wire them up somewhere... other than a camper van...
  2. Will you accept with limited generating capacity one has to be mobile and not fix the panel to a specific South facing element.

Bits/ Inverter is key drain limited battery / efforts/ latency adjusting wires/ tightenning connections/

What is the critical number of panels to meet your basic requirements

When do you choose to seek outside installation from general retailers and trained installation

BASIC CALCULATIONS DECIDING DEMAND/ ARCHETYPES
  1. Budget - Affordability...
  2. http://mygreentech.net/E/DomesticPowerGeneration.php http://mygreentech.net/E/OffGrid.php http://www..../doku.php?id=power_it_to_add http://www...../doku.php?id=power_it

An individual or family has a whole variety of needs when it comes to powering what they consume and in turn what they need. There a variety of ways we consume energy, this is reviewed in the Archetypes page.

The greatest philosophers and theoreticians understand that life and relations on earth start from basic materialism. Whatever political or ideological concepts one finds most persuasive and one finds greatest personal affinity to, there is an inherent historical materialism.

Where one cam start small, purchase a convenient and affordable 400 to 600W portable power station this will only store and power from SolarPV/ or Wind Turbine current for a limited variety of everyday needs, namely mobile(s), laptops and such like.

To be one's own Power Generator through choice or necessity starts from a macro-view of the drivers for becoming a Domestic or Independent Off Grid Power Generator to looking at the technical sourcing, implementing and operating in safe way a Power System.

The prime driver for Domestic Power Generation is as a bill payer. Any given household has a series of basic questions: How much do I/we consume and how much do I pay per unit of energy I purchase from a Grid retailer. Am I able to generate energy for any of my household's needs, am I able to store it whence I have generated it, and how much and in what way am I able to. If one has a fairly limited understanding or constraints on making change, do I seek to make a realisable change to how I currently answer these questions, and can I, and how, make any incremental or automatic changes.

Intoducing Domestic and/or Independent Power Generation

Domestic Power generation relies on small-scale heat or power generation units such as photovoltaic (PV) solar panels, limited size wind and hydro powered generating units, solar water heating panels, ground or air source heat pumps, boilers or combined heat and power units fuelled by wood chips to name the most common.

Domestic power generation units will likely reduce energy bills, impact on the environment, and with a surplus of power generation the capacity to sell your electricity back to the national, or local, grid. It also ultimately feeds into national and international geopolitical objectives of reducing dependence on large generating plants located far from where one lives, and the importing of costly energy from overseas.

Domestic battery technology is developing all the time. It can be used alongside the common domestic renewable sources of Solar and Wind generation respectively. StoreIt pages go into more detail on what is feasible here.

Developing a PV Solar System

Solar radiation is light – also known as electromagnetic radiation – that is emitted by the sun. While the amount of radiation across the Earth’s surface varies, Solar technology(s) capture radiation turning it into energy. Whilst there are two main types of solar energy technologies—photovoltaics (PV) and concentrating solar-thermal power (CSP) we MyGreenTech.net focusses on the domestic and community based forms of the PV Solar. When the sun shines onto a solar panel, energy from the sunlight is absorbed by the PV cells in the panel. This energy creates electrical charges that move in response to an internal electrical field in the cell, causing electricity to flow.

 

Voltage and charge MBMS Charge Controller

  1. 10x 450w PV panels
  2. 1 x Hybrid Inverter.
  3. 2x 5.12kWH batteries.

Cost of 10 panels c 4.4 kWP just under £3k.  4.7kWh battery just over £3k. - V Competitive

A 12V solar panel is 16 - 18V solar panel in reality. Sure you can connect it but then you are relying on Battery Management System (BMS)to protect the battery from overcharge. At least install cheap PWM charge controller for 2nd layer of protection. There is no such thing as 12V vs 12.8V LiFePo4 battery.

Choosing the correct fuse

             

The fuse is your circuit protective device, its your means of automatic disconnection if this go wrong.

When your designing your system or circuit the following of what one should take into account:

  1. What is the biggest consumer of power
  2. Take into account cumulative demand say 100w at peak power for the fridge at the same time..in a circuit.
  3. Size of the fuse doesn't want to be greater than the current carrying capacity of the cable. If the fuse is greater than the cable then your cable becomes the fuse.

IR Value - How much current / power you can put in to the fuse and it still operates safely.

amount of current that can travel into the fuse and it still works safely - it still disconnects without catching fire, blowing up or melting, arcing - still allowing that full current to travel through it.

Type of fuse and where to buy...

Bargains are not the best choice. Purchasing suppliers who follow due diligence in what they are supplying. In essence this going direct to the manufacturer and finding evidence of data of what they have produced...if they know this or not...is key to evidencing their due diligence.

Data sheet from the manufacturing covering the voltage range they're using; the ampage that is available in that product, such as a 10A, 20A, 400A that that product is available in are all indicative of their due diligence..

ANL Fuse

CFM Terminal Fuse Block / Marine Rated Battery Fuse MRBF

this is outlined in the Marine Rated Battery Fuse (MRBF) With Fuse and Cable Sizing [CleverSolarPower by Nick]

Class-T Fuse-Holder 400A and 600A / Ceramic Fuse

this is outlined in the Class-T Fuse Holder [Pro Installer] These are big chuncky metal fuses for the circuit block. They withstand a significant flow current. The sand within given Cermanic Fuse should up to 20,000 amps withstand an Arc jumping either side of the Fuse or cermanic ring space... preventing a current flowing through your circuit / battery devices etc..

Testing a fuse in action:

this is outlined in the Testing a fuse in action

Circuit Breakers:

this is outlined in the Circuit Breakers Explained

Calculating the maximum short cirucit capacity a circuit could experience on LiFePo4 Battery

  • 648a LiFePo4 Battery
  • ICC: 650 x10 = 6500a
  • IR value: greater than 6500a

648a x 10 to understand the low resistence in this example of battery this is approximately 6500a ICC resistence the most one would expect resitence capacity under short circuit conditions. Whereas as comparison Lead Acide batteries have a greater resistence factor, that limits the amount of power the fault can create. Therefore the rate value of the battery maybe 648-650 amps, but the rule of thumb for a Lead Acide battery is 5x the ratable value of the battery (current capacity) is you times by a factor of 5 inlight of this greater resistence

  • 648a Lead Acide Battery
  • ICC: 650 x5 = 3250a
  • IR value: greater than 3250a

Reviewing different fuses IR Value

SHOW LINKS TO PRODUCT PAGES ON MERCHANT pages

Choosing the correct cable

  1. Size of cable
  2. Current carrying capacity of cable
  3. Making off - Shaving tightening of ends of cable can have significant effect on efficiency of transfer of current from PV to battery.

Demand.

The number one item of demand is often the oven or in the case of most homes today the kettle (2000 to 3000), the airfyer (1700w - 800 to 2000w depending on size), the coffee machine (1300w -800 to 1500), or the toaster (1300w -800 to 1500).

The inverter

Examples vary, and some reasonably priced on the market choices. Above all else the range of safety features on the Inverter lends helps determine the right choice...,/p>

The inverter say of 2000w can do a few hundred more depending on ambient temperture.

Choosing an inverter is important to go with a well established name that has been around for a reasonable amount of time.

Vitron, Renogy
  • Converts 12V to 230V AC with 3000W power and 6000W surge at >90% efficiency....
  • UPS auto-switches to battery in <50ms for uninterrupted power.
  • Quiet, safe operation with smart cooling and 5-layer protection.
  • Quick setup with clear terminals and wired remote.
  • CE/RoHS certified with UK warranty and support.
  • To power a 1700W air fryer, you'll need a battery with sufficient capacity (Ah) and a compatible inverter. A 1700W air fryer will draw approximately 14.17 amps at 120 volts. Therefore, you'll need a battery with enough amp-hours (Ah) to provide that current for the desired cooking time, plus an inverter with a wattage rating of at least 1700W. A good starting point is a 200Ah lithium battery, according to some van owners on Facebook, or potentially larger depending on your usage and other factors.

    Here's a breakdown:

    1. Calculate Amps:

    Amps = Watts / Volts

    For a 1700W air fryer on a 120V circuit, this is 1700 / 120 = 14.17 amps.

  • For a 240V circuit, it would be 1700 / 240 = 7.08 amps.

  • 2. Determine Battery Capacity (Ah):

    Battery Capacity:

    The amp-hour (Ah) rating of a battery indicates how much current it can deliver for a specific period.

    Desired Run Time:

    Consider how long you need the air fryer to run. If you want to run it for 30 minutes (0.5 hours), and it draws 14.17 amps, you'd need a battery with at least 14.17 * 0.5 = 7.085 Ah. However, this is just for the air fryer itself, and you need to factor in inverter losses and other potential loads.

    Inverter Losses:

    Inverters also consume power, so you'll need to account for that. A larger inverter will have higher losses.

    Other Loads:

    Consider if you'll be using other appliances simultaneously.

    Safety Margin:

    It's wise to have a battery capacity that is significantly larger than the bare minimum to ensure you're not constantly draining the battery to its limit.

    3. Choose a Suitable Inverter:

    Inverter Size:

    T

    he inverter should be rated for at least 1700W (or more, to provide a buffer).

    Inverter Type:

    Pure sine wave inverters are generally recommended for sensitive electronics like air fryers.

    4. Battery Type:

    Lithium-ion (LiFePO4):

    Generally preferred for their higher energy density, longer lifespan, and faster charging capabilities. They are more expensive upfront but can be more cost-effective in the long run.

    AGM:

    A good, more affordable option, but they have a shorter lifespan and may not perform as well under heavy loads compared to lithium.

    Example:

    Let's assume you want to run the air fryer for 30 minutes (0.5 hours) and want a 20% safety margin.

    If the air fryer draws 14.17 amps, you need 14.17 * 0.5 = 7.085 Ah for the air fryer.

    Adding a 20% safety margin, you'd need 7.085 * 1.2 = 8.5 Ah.

    However, you also need to consider inverter losses. If the inverter is 10% efficient, you'd need to add an extra 10% to the total, bringing it to 9.35 Ah. With other potential loads, it's wise to have a much larger battery capacity. A 200Ah lithium battery would be a good starting point for a 1700W air fryer, according to some van owners on Facebook. In summary: You'll need a battery with sufficient Ah to cover the air fryer's power draw, plus a 2000W or higher inverter. Lithium-ion batteries are a good choice for their performance and longevity, but AGM batteries can also be used. Always calculate your needs based on your specific usage and desired run time.

  • The Specifics of PV Solar Panels

    ....................

    Solar Power (PV)

    After one has answered the core strategic questions above there are a range of more individual questions to answer.

    These include the size of one's property where PV will be installed.

    • Small - such as Shed or Garage
    • Medium - Terrace house
    • Large - Detached House/Bungalow
    • Extra Large - Warehouse/ Barn conversion

    Ownership status

    • Own
    • Rent

    Type of use of property

    • Residential
    • Commercial

    Type of PV on your rooftop

    Monocrystalline (mono) or Polycrystalline (poly) solar panels. Both are durable silicon, while Mono panels are shiny black and poly bright blue. Black monocrystalline panels are slightly more expensive.

    class="section-heading">Solar Inverter

    The PV inverter takes the direct current (DC) generated by one's panels and converts it into alternating current (AC). The PV inverter chosen may have effect one's panel options.

    Which structure you mount panels onto your roof with

    How your roof is constructed influences the choice of anchors required to attach panels safe and securely to one's roof, it also effects the angle at which the sunlight is received and the efficiency of your PV panels.

    Which Battery Storage Unit

    XYZ>

    Warranty

    Installers or original manufactuers will provide warranties or limited warranties. Knowing the different general limitations and benefits of all warranties is a sensible approach.


    Domestic Wind Turbines

    These are normally errected on a pole on the ground or on building rooftops, and more regularly offgrid units with accompanying charge batteries and inverters for domestic use. Depending on turbine model they are not strong enough to supply households full electricity needs, but more as an accompaniment to other power sources.

    As well as reducing your energy bills like PV, following paying of the cost for your turbine, wind power is essentially free, and domestic wind turbines may be slower to gain the return on investment but do reduce electricity bills over the long term.

    Like PV one can sell unused energy back to a grid and with the increasing prices of domestic energy, and securing more of your own source of energy could help to mitigate the impact of future price hikes.

    Before choosing which Wind Turbine one will install one should reflect on:

    • Financing options available for wind. These include Property Assessed Clean Energy (PACE) programs—enable homeowners to finance their installation through tax levied on one's property, and its repaid via one's annual tax bill.
    • https://www.renewableenergyhub.co.uk/main/wind-turbines/finance-options-for-wind-turbines/ https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Property+Assessed+Clean+Energy&source=hp&ei=ugGBY-aeOpiigAbUnKCYCA&iflsig=AJiK0e8AAAAAY4EPymKGnj7eoEaBVi442Yfs60Fp2Vpx&ved=0ahUKEwjm45vl88n7AhUYEcAKHVQOCIMQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=Property+Assessed+Clean+Energy&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEUABYAGCCB2gAcAB4AIABQ4gBQ5IBATGYAQCgAQKgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz
    • Researching wind patterns at one's chosen location.
    • Whether your local area requires planning permission, even for rooftop turbines.
    • Likely noise of chosen turbine.
    • Space. In general wind turbines need to be 30ft higher than any object, within a 300-foot radius. Depending on the landscape and wind patterns of the location, this could be between 60 and 120 feet high. If one lives in a space of less than one acre of land, one is likely to be focussing on a rooftop turbine.
    • Up-front cost of the turbine itself can be high even for a rooftop model and anywhere signficantly more for most pole-mounted turbines, including maintenance costs over time as well.
    • Which Model - the best way to generate wind power is to install a free-standing pole-mounted turbine—in an area with good space.
    • Can you partner or create a hybrid partnership with another renewable energy like PV or otherwise.

    What are Over Current Protection Circuit Breakers/ Fuses and Isolators

    When a fault in a circuit occurs Circuit Breakers trip and the faulty Busbar section is disconnected from the circuit.


    What are Over Current Protection Circuit Breakers/ Fuses and Isolators

    When a fault in a circuit occurs Circuit Breakers trip and the faulty Busbar section is disconnected from the circuit.


    RCB Main Distribution Board Connection with Voltage Protector and RCBO https://youtu.be/Gup2EBiPifY MCB: Standard way to make Trip & ON Indication Lamp Circuit for MCB @the electrical guy https://youtu.be/VGBHmVKW7_c Learn Practically Auto Transfer Switch (ATS) Panel Connection https://youtu.be/FORgvHuPncY Switch Board Basics: https://youtu.be/kcK05xG9V1c Over Voltage Protection - Protecting my Home from Voltage Problems / Voltage protection device for home

    What are Busbars

    A Busbar is a metalic conductor that serves as a central hub for multiple electrical connections. It can be solid, hollow or flexible of various sizes. In effect, an electrical junction where all the incoming and outgoing electric currents meet. By providing a single node point, it is easier to provide protection to multiple incoming and outgoing conductor connections (wires etc).

    Busbars include Isolators and Circuit Breakers. A standard Single Busbar Arrangement is when a single Busbar is connected to all features from Circuit breakers, and Isolators etc. It's known for operational simplicity and low maintenance. However, when a fault occurs in the system it impacts the entire supply, making it unreliable for smaller systems where continuous supply is essential.


    REM REd: https://youtu.be/eBogODs99J8?si=ZEpxM-2B1aX0b82m

    What to look out for when choosing a Busbar

    Busbar types are mainly rectangular and round. The two most commonly used materials are Copper and Aluminium. The former a more reliable conductor with higher tensile strength; higher thermal exapansion and superior conductivity compared to softer Aluminium. However, Aluminium needs more surface area for conductivity, and therefore larger and demand more space compared to Copper. In essence one sees Copper perform better in terms of Power Loss, Voltage Drop, Electrical resistance, Ampacity.

    Busbar Comparison Guide PRODUCT LIST REVIEW

    What are Inverters

    ........


    What are Charge Controllers

    ........


    Examples of Misc. Tech

    ........


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